tayrona and santa marta

tayrona parque nacional natural was something i was really looking forward to.  it is a colombian national park stretching the caribbean coast. it is where the jungle meets the sea.  i had read numerous blogs describing it as paradise and who doesn't want to go to paradise!

we took a bus from santa marta to the park entrance.  from there it was to be a 2-3 hour hike into a place called cabo san juan where you are able to rent a tent and sleep for the night.  unfornunately there is no mid-range option.  you are either in the tents or you can stay in these gorgeous ecohabs that are $200-300pp per night......not in our budget!

so we set off.  i expected the hike to be hot and humid, which it was.  the beginning of the hike was pleasantly along a boardwalk with an orchestra of frogs serenading us as we walked.

there were a couple spots where we got peaks of beautiful coastline.

and then the hike became an entirely different animal!!   there are basically two seasons in this part of south america, the dry season and the rainy season.  currently it is the rainy season, which means that every afternoon there is an hour or so of rain.  the result being a great deal of mud! we had to slog through mid-shin deep mud for the second half of the hike....it was exhausting!  thankfully the kids thought it was some grand adventure and laughed the entire way!

eventually we finally made it to cabo san juan and got ourselves set up in a couple of tents.  it felt a little bit like we had arrived at a music festival.....minus the music.  we put on our suits and jumped immediately in the ocean to cool off.

within about an hour it started raining....i mean really really raining.   the kids and i actually stayed in the ocean in the rain for a good long while (which they were both absolutely delighted with!).  when we got of the water we ended up hunkering down in the restaurant area as the rain was not letting up.  we ran to our tent for some dry clothes, our bag of food and some playing cards. todd and i ordered a bottle of wine and we planned to wait it out!

it did not let up for several hours!  our bottle of wine was empty and we'd eaten most of our food. but the rain was still coming down!

and it was not just raining, it was a torrential downpour with crazy thunder and lightning (i am NOT a fan of thunderstorms!)

raining sideways!

needless to say our tent did not survive unscathed.  there were these egg carton type sleeping mats in each tent that basically ended up being sponges of water.

the kids are so so resilient. they both got in the tent and laid down on the wet mats, with no blankets, no pillows, no nothing, and they went to sleep.  no complaints.  i had a bottle of wine to help me get to sleep, but they just accepted that things were what they were and went to bed.   todd and i both commented that though they will complain or whine about stupid little things, when push comes to shove the kids can suck it up and deal with some pretty crazy shit!

in the morning we woke to that beautiful paradise we were promised.  it was really quite beautiful, no doubt.

we also saw they we weren't the only ones drinking their way into sleep the night before...

but after the night we had we were quite ready to go.  we had learned our lesson with the mud and decided that the cost of the horses to carry us out was worth every penny.

and so ended the chapter on tayrona.  both todd and i decided that even without the mud and thunderstorm factors we didn't feel the park was worth the effort.  certainly it is beautiful but sharing paradise with 150+ people is not my definition of paradise!!  not worth it!


we made our way back to our hostel in santa marta and couldn't be happier to be there!  santa marta itself doesn't have much to see.....and in fact we did not leave our hostel once.  partly because our hostel was fabulous!  it is called drop bear hostel (the name has some throw back meaning to australia as the owners are australian).  BUT as this is colombia, the hostel was converted from a mansion previously owned by a drug trafficker. it was built in the late 70s/early 80s so likely not a cocaine trafficker, more likely a marijuana trafficker.  anyway the place had a pool, a huge game room with a pool table and ping pong table, a movie area, a bar and a restaurant.  oh and air conditioning in our bedroom!  it was delightful!

yesterday was thanksgiving and although there was no turkey and mashed potatoes for us we were thankful for this adventurous little family and for the gift of the adventure itself....and for dry beds!!

we are less than a week away from coming home and we will spend our remaining days chillin at beach towns along the caribbean coast.  today we will make our way to the town of taganga for a couple nights.
hasta luego!

cartagena

my oh my is cartagena one postcard perfect place!  old town cartegena is street after street of colonial buildings painted bright colors with flowers dripping from balconies....truly magnificent!   home to the author of one of my favorite books, one hundred years of solitude, it is no wonder that gabriel garcia marquez's magical realism was inspired by this city.

it is also hella hot!  we strolled through old town in the morning hours from plaza to plaza and within mintues it seemed we were dripping with sweat (todd was quite literally soaked!).   by 10 am we were desperately searching for a museum with air conditioning...for example the palacio de la inquisicion.  maybe a bit macabre, but did i mention the air conditioning!

by evening the heat cooled a bit and everyone filled the streets again. we watched a spectacular sunset and later a fabulous dance group that performed in the plaza mayor.

the second day in cartagena it was overcast and raining.....what a wonderful break from the heat!!  we took advantage of the weather and checked out the massive old spanish fort just outside of old town called castillo de san felipe.

from the top of the castillo you can see old town cartegena straight ahead and then to the left you can see part of the new city....often called 'little miami'

that afternoon riley was determined to catch a fish off the city wall by the local method of just throwing in a line and hook (no rod).  i suppose he comes by this fishing thing naturally as my mother's family has been fishing the seas for generations and my father is an avid fisherman of the rivers.  he didn't catch anything but was thrilled by the nibbles.

our last day in cartagena we took a day trip out to playa blanca on the isla banu.......about an hour away from cartagena.  the kids really wanted some beach time and the beaches in cartagena are not particularly nice, but playa blanca is all white sandy beaches and green blue waters.  a beautiful stretch of caribbean coast!

being a tourist beach it was full of vendors, and the beach itself was packed by the end of the day!!  i got suckered into a foot massage and todd quickly followed suit.  i also enjoyed myself a coconut cocktail!

this guy makes pineapple and coconut cocktails out of his wheelbarrow

mostly we just relaxed in the water.  instead of a foot massage the kids opted to ride this 'banana' thing.

we were all deliciously exhausted by the time we boarded the bus back to cartagena.  the kids got a bit too much sun (bad parents!) but otherwise we had a spectacular day at the beach!

an amazing few days in an unforgettable city!!

today we left cartagena and traveled up the coast a few hours. we are now in the city of santa marta and will be exploring things around these parts for the next couple days.
hasta luego!